Amami_and_Okinawa

These two islands are the largest in the Ryukyu Island chain that stretches south of Kyushu and ends in the sub-tropical Yaeyama Island group off Taiwan. The Ryukyu Islands are noted for their differences to the main island: a warmer climate and warmer current, and the fact the islands are a mountain chain separated relatively recently from the Asian landmass, mean that there are several distinctive endemic birds that are reminiscent of Eurasian species. Wonderful species like the lushly coloured Lidth's Jay, the enigmatic Amami Woodcock, the mysterious Okinawa Rail and the dapper Ryukyu Robin occur on these islands and nowhere else in the world. All this, along with lush evergreen forests with tree ferns and tropical orchids, well-maintained roads and tracks, a culture distinct from the rest of Japan, with delicious island food and a laid-back way of living, shamisen music and an evocative island singing style, coral reefs, secluded beeches and mangroves- a trip to these islands is a must for any birdwatcher or naturalist keen to expand their knowledge of Japanese avifauna.

On Amami, it is easy to see Lidth's Jay, which can be quite tame and move in groups. Often associated with Ryukyu Pine and oak trees, they scuttle squirrel-like around the branches, peering inquisitively at observers. Vocally and structurally they are reminiscent of Eurasian Jay, but their purple-brown plumage, indigo wings and tail, and powder-blue bills are quite different! On night drives in the forest, it is possible to see arrange of Amami's nocturnal wildlife: Ryukyu Scops Owl are very common and easily seen by torchlight, and some areas contain the highest densities of this species in the world. Amami Woodcock occurs on islands between Amami and northern Okinawa (see below), but is commonest on Amami Island. Birds can be seen foraging on damp track sides in the hill forests. Amami Woodcock are similar to Eurasian Woodcock (common in Amami throughout the winter in the same habitat) but they are subtly longer-legged, have a more rounded forehead, lack the white spotting to the upperparts of Eurasian, and tend to flush and fly more clumsily than their more migratory counterparts. The most curious nocturnal Amami resident seen along the forest tracks is the dumpy, short-eared Amami Rabbit. These large animals are best seen at between 8 and 9pm, after which they tend to move back into the forest.

One of the curious things about the Amami forest is that it is home to one of the most dangerous venomous snakes in the world, the Habu. These snakes are common in the forest undergrowth, and even ascend into lower storey branches in winter, where they hunt small birds and the two species of tree rat endemic to Amami. They have poor eyesight, but compensate for this by aggressively striking out at a passing heat source. For this reason, walking through the densely vegetated woods in Amami is not at all recommended: there are human casualties each year, but bite victims are usually snake hunters who are trying to trap the snakes that are valued for their skins and used in a potent sweet potato liqueur called shochu. The Habu has a set of long fangs and a large mouth, which means the bites inflicted are especially dangerous. For naturalists, and for many bird, mammal and reptile species on the island, the presence of this snake, and the relative absence of human activity in the forest ensures the forest habitat remains undisturbed. Many of Amami's birds can be easily viewed at the forest edge along tracks, especially the verges.

Just outside the small capital city of Amami, Naze, is the Kinsakubaru Virgin forest, a great site for a dawn visit. Just before dawn the exquisite song of the large Amami Thrush can be heard for about 30 minutes before daybreak. Sometimes these large thrushes, very similar in appearance to White's Thrush, can be seen feeding along verges on worms, or perched in branches overhanging tracks. The song consists of fluty phrases like that of Siberian Thrush and is very different from the eerie nocturnal whistles given by White's Thrush.

As the sun breaks, the melodic trills of many Ryukyu Robin can be heard. These birds tend to keep hidden in under storey, but at daybreak you can see birds hopping onto tracks in the open to feed. The carrot-orange upperparts and pied underparts of the males make them very striking. Other interesting forest birds to be seen are Ryukyu endemic races of Varied Tit, Great Tit, Japanese Bush Warbler, Narcissus Flycatcher (males with greenish upperparts, possibly a separate, resident species) and the very dark subspecies owstoni of White-backed Woodpecker, which are most easily seen in March when males are drumming in Ryukyu Pines- this could also be given full species status in the future, as birds seem to grade between White-backed Woodpecker of southern Kyushu and Okinawa Woodpecker further south (see below). Black Woodpigeon, with their lamb-like bleating call and deep whooping, and Ryukyu Green Pigeon with their eerie wavering whistles are furtive, but occasionally seen well in fruiting fig trees. Ryukyu Minivet are resident birds (they are currently spreading northward through the whole of Kyushu and have now reached southern Honshu) that are common on Amami, and easily located by their shrill whistled flight call. The stunning Ryukyu subspecies of Ruddy Kingfisher is more easily seen here than the nominate form- it even perches on electricity wires in the islands, where the birds' violet upperparts can be seen when against a forest background of deep green.

Okinawa Island to the south holds two special endemic bird species: Okinawa Woodpecker and Okinawa Rail. Both are restricted to the broadleaf forest of Yanbaru in the northern, more underdeveloped section of the island. Despite their rarity, the area remains unprotected with significant habitat loss attributed to road and dam building. The birds are also threatened by the spread of Alien predators including Javan Mongoose.

Yanbaru also contains the Okinawa Habu (a less dangerous, but still venomous subspecies), an endemic tortoise and an endemic newt species. Early morning and late afternoon walks through the forest along quiet single track roads should reveal the woodpeckers, which drum in March and April and are often flushed from the ground at the base of large trees, where they feed on ants. Males show a red infusion to their dark upperparts, and only a few white spots on the wings and tail sides. The Okinawa Rail, with their characteristic coral-red bills and boldly barred underparts, are rather skulking until early May, when all wintering Grey-faced Buzzard (a potential predator) have left the island and migrated north.

In the summer months, birds are often sighted bathing at favourite forest pools that stay full throughout the season. Okinawa Rail was described by scientists as recently as 1981, although historically the bird was known to local people as agachi. Okinawa Rail is a fascinating species, but birders frequently get brief views of birds scuttling over roads or along roadside drains. They move and roost in groups, often on large limbs of trees up to 10m from the ground (where they presumably perch to avoid snakes). Okinawa Rail rarely take flight: they select trees with leaning trunks that they can run up. The vocal repertoire of these groups is loud and varied, including some very strange hyena-like yelps and moans, frog-like chirps, a loud rattling trill and some ticking sounds.

Other birds to be seen in Yanbaru forest are Great Tit, Varied Tit, Japanese Bush Warbler, Japanese White-eye, Brown-eared Bulbul, the Okinawa subspecies of Ryukyu Robin (with charcoal grey underparts and a louder trilling song), Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Ryukyu Minivet, Ryukyu Scops Owl, Japanese Scops Owl (restricted subspecies pryeri found only here), Brown Hawk Owl (or Northern Boobok as it is now known in English), Japanese Paradise Flycatcher, Japanese Sparrowhawk and Amami Woodcock, which is a scarce breeder here. Many of these birds are represented by a different subspecies to Amami birds.

Further south in Okinawa, the town of Kin contains many wet rice paddies in autumn and spring, and mudflats further south near Naha city play host to many migratory and wintering wader species that do not occur in winter further north in Japan. Vagrant American species like Least Sandpiper and Pectoral Sandpiper are occasionally reported. In winter, Common Snipe should be watched carefully in an attempt to identify Pintail and Swinhoe's Snipe, which winter here in small numbers. The rice field verges and reeds support populations of the remarkable Cinnamon Bittern and the plucky White-breasted Waterhen. Scaly-breasted and White-rumped Munia are common: they are either established escapees or genuine colonists from mainland China or nearby Taiwan. The Light-vented or Chinese Bulbul is now an increasingly common resident north to the northern tip of Okinawa, and is easily seen in scrubby field verges close to habitation.

Note: both islands have a range of interesting migrants that visit in spring and autumn, among these, Grey Thrush, Chestnut Bunting, Japanese Yellow Bunting, Yellow Wagtail, Goldcrest, Black-capped Kingfisher, Dollarbird, Black-naped Oriole and Japanese Night Heron are scarce, but annual visitors, from late April to mid May. Some of the smaller islands of the Ryukyu chain off Okinawa and Amami are perhaps better for searching for wind-blown migrants, with the mysterious Tokara Islands to the north of Amami offering the best migrant birding in southern Japan.

We can arrange a local guide to take you around some or all of these sites, and we can arrange reservations and transport. Our local guides know exactly what rare birds are about, so you could tick off something like Black Bittern as a bonus! Please also see our suggested itinerary for a short bird tour to both Amami and Okinawa, and note that all our tours can be pieced together to make a longer, Japan-wide tour if desired. Please contact us with your requests.

Amami & Okinawa Islands: Winter Suggested Tour Itinerary, 4 nights, 5 days, December-March

This itinerary is based on flights to and from Tokyo Haneda Airport, but it is possible to fly to and from Kagoshima Airport to link up with that tour.

Be aware that there are several species of venomous snake on Amami, and one in northern Okinawa. They mostly occur in forest, but could venture into garden plots and roadsides in winter. The habu of Amami are the most dangerous- a viper that can grow up to 2m in length. Don't venture into forest in search of birds: it is better to stay on tracks where you have a clear view of the path ahead of you.

Day 1
Morning flight from Tokyo Haneda Airport, arrive Naze, Amami Island. If the tide is low, it is worth checking the Ose mudflat right by the airport after picking up the car. This area has small populations of waders that don't occur in winter further north in Japan: Red-necked Stint, Ruddy Turnstone, Mongolian Plover, Whimbrel and Pacific Golden Plover. Streaked Shearwater may be seen offshore from here. Nearby tamarisks hold winter flocks of Brambling, Siskin and occasionally Russet Sparrow. Goldcrest occur in early December and march on migration. The creek holds a variety of waders including Black-winged Stilt. Siberian Rubythroat and Brown Shrike (subspecies lucionensis) winter in small numbers in nearby garden plots. Eastern Reef Egret are commonly seen along the shore (about 50/ 50 dark/ white birds) and there are normally a few Black-headed Gull. Rare visitors to this site have included Pied Avocet, Saunder's Gull, Pectoral Sandpiper and Brown Booby in recent years. Normally a few Richard's Pipit winter in the turf areas, and Red-throated and Buff-bellied Pipit flock together at the play park turf near the port. Eurasian Woodcock have been recorded in the play area in the trees near the car park.

Drive to Naze city. On the way, stop at Akina rice fields. It is probably better to stay in the car to watch waders and ducks in the paddies. Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed Plover, Common Snipe and Wood and Green Sandpiper are annual in small numbers. Rare birds have included Long-billed Plover, Solitary Snipe and Greater Painted Snipe. Cinnamon Bittern is resident, but is very rarely seen as it keeps low in vegetation. Scan wires and poles by the village for Silky Starling.

In recent winters there have been records of a few Rook and Russet Sparrow here, as well as a wintering population of around 20 or so Siberian Rubythroat. Yellow-browed Warbler winter, and can be seen in the pines next to the river. At the nearby forest edge, Lidth's Jay are vocal and may be picked out. It is probably better to park on a verge and walk closer to the trees for a look- within a few minutes a pair should come closer to peak at you- they are inquisitive (and exquisitely coloured!) corvids. This forest also has a pair of White-backed Woodpecker (dark subspecies owstoni, which may in fact be a separate species in its own right)- they can be heard "tapping" at the forest edge, but drumming doesn't start until the end of February. Japanese Bush Warbler (ssp. cantans and riukiuensis) winter and can be heard giving dry "chet" calls in vegetation. Japanese Sparrowhawk can occasionally be seen flying across the small valley, but you will definitely get good views of several Grey-faced Buzzard perching attentively on electricity poles- they are a common winter sight in open areas away from the forest on Amami. If you are really lucky, you'll find a dark phase bird- they comprise around 7% of the total population, but 2-3 regularly occur in winter on Amami.

Check into your hotel in Naze. From there, you can drive around the nearby forest roads until dusk. Around Naze City (which seems smaller than most towns in Japan!) there are opportunities to see Brown-headed, Pale, Eye-browed, Dusky and Naumann's Thrush in fruiting trees near the new park by the bridge, and Pacific Swallow is common on wires. In the forest, Ryukyu Green Pigeon and Black Woodpigeon could appear at any time, and areas where natural forest looms over the road are good places to check for Arctic or Yellow-browed Warbler, Japanese White-eye, Brown-eared Bulbul and Lidth's Jay.

After dinner, go out on a night drive along one of the mountain tacks just outside Amami. With a spotlight, it will be easier to pick out the numerous Elegant Scops Owl that occur in the Kinsakubaru Forest area. Northern Boobok (or Brown Hawk Owl as it used to be known) are also quite common here- they have a lower hoot and are less easily seen. Amami Woodcock are to be found along these tracks, feeding on soft verges, and flushing rather heavily (on occasion, into tree limbs 2m from the ground!). Beware: Eurasian Woodcock are a common wintering species here, in the same habitat as Amami Woodcock- so it is necessary to get decent headlit views of feeding birds to make your diagnosis.

Day 2
It is advisable to wake up at 0430, to drive back to Kinsakubaru, for you will get more chances to see Amami Woodcock along the track. At 0530, you should be parking the car at the sign for the forest by the junction, setting off quietly on foot. Over the next half hour (before dawn at 6am), you should hear the sparse whistled phrases of Amami Thrush song. If you keep quiet, you may even see a male feeding and signing on the track ahead of you as the sun comes up. You have to be very vigilant and quiet to get views of this wary endemic. As the darkness thins, the last phrase of thrush song is sounded, and the trilling melodies of male Ryukyu Robin start up what is one of the most evocative dawn choruses in Japan. If you turn corners of the track slowly, without crunching grit with your shoes, you can get great views of these perky little birds as they hop onto the track to feed. They are much more skulking during the day: this is the time to see them.

Over the next hour or so, you should see most of the Amami forest birds on your walk: Lidth's Jay, White-backed and Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Great and Varied Tit (which have confusingly similar songs here), Asian Stubtail (a winterer), Ryukyu Minivet (in dead branches overlooking the open slope near the forest sign), Japanese White-eye and Brown-eared Bulbul. Be aware that White's Thrush also occur in Amami's forests in winter, so you need to be judging any possible Amami Thrush very carefully. Ryukyu Flycatcher occurs here all year, and in winter, some 1st year males are in song. They can be seen on some low vines at pints downhill from the junction, at the forest edge. Grey and Elegant Bunting over-winter in some years. Brown-headed Thrush is a common winter visitor in Ryukyu Pine forest, whereas Pale Thrush is more common in evergreen forest.

A drive south to the mangroves at Sumiyo provides an opportunity for some walks in the open park area down by the river. Eurasian Kingfisher, Common Sandpiper and Temminck's Stint occur. Lidth's Jay venture into the mangroves to collect nest material. Great and Eastern Reef Egret can be seen on the muddy banks. Buff-bellied Pipit, Daurian Redstart and Dusky Thrush are found around the car park. Hoopoe is possible in March (and on any other turf-covered lawns you might see on the island during your stay). tankan (a kind of sweet Satsuma) orchards near the village hold Black-faced Bunting, Japanese Bush Warbler, Ryukyu Robin, and, if you are lucky, Cinnamon Bittern. Striated Heron winters along the narrow river here.
A drive further south to Setouchi takes you to the Mount Yui trail, which gives you another opportunity to search for forest birds. Amami Thrush are quite common here and have been heard singing on overcast afternoons. After eating in Setouchi town, a night drive along one of the trails leading down hill from the turning to the car park of Yuwandake, the highest peak on the island, should provide good spotlit views of Elegant Scops Owl and Amami Woodcock. Between 8 and 9pm is the optimum hour for watching the endemic and enigmatic Amami Black Rabbit. These plump mammals are often most active at this time, and this is one of the best places to see them in Amami. Return to Naze to your hotel.

Day 3
An early morning visit to The Amami natural Forest visitor centre is highly recommended, as this is a great site to get very close to Amami's special birds. Lidth's Jay and Ryukyu Robin can be very confiding here. Ryukyu Flycatcher can be seen. There is a resident pair of White-backed Woodpecker, whose tapping will give you a clue as to which tree they are on. Black Woodpigeon, Ryukyu Green Pigeon and Oriental Turtle Dove can be seen here without too much trouble. Red-flanked Bluetail, Elegant Bunting and Asian Stubtail winter, but are rather inconspicuous. Ryukyu Minivet often gather on dead branches by the roadside giving their shrill calls. Amami Woodcock can occasionally be seen feeding in daylight in the soft leaf litter. This site has a number of well-managed trails that you can walk along without too much anxiety over snakes- a small species himehabu, occurs here. Although it is venomous, it is more docile than its bigger cousin. Watch where you step!
Drive a short distance to the airport to catch a midday flight to Naha, Okinawa.

Okinawa Island
Pick up a hire car on arrival in Naha, and drive up the west coast to the northern section of the island, Yanbaru. This is the wildest part of the highly-developed island. There is a lot of traffic, and the journey will be slow. There are opportunities to stop and birdwatch at roadsides by garden plots. Light-vented Bulbul should be seen without too much difficulty. Check into your pension in Yanbaru for the night.

Day 4
Spend the day driving around the narrow roads that criss-cross Yanbaru forest. Areas near the summits of Fuenchiji and Yonaha, where there are narrow wedges of older broadleaf forest, are a good place to search for the endangered Okinawa Woodpecker. This species differs from White-backed Woodpecker in Amami in that it is even darker, and spends a lot of time feeding on grubs and ants at the base of the trees. It is easier to locate these birds in March , when both sexes drum, but drumming occurs from December. Males show a red crown, and a deep red wash to the dark upperparts.
Other species present in the woods include Brown-eared Bulbul, Varied and East Asian Tit, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Japanese Bush Warbler, Japanese White-eye, Asian Stubtail, Brown-headed and Pale Thrush and Ryukyu Minivet. Elegant and Grey Bunting may be present in some years. The Okinawa race of Ryukyu Robin is vociferous in the early mornings (more so in March) and seems to prefer lushly vegetated gullies within the forest. The song is slightly harder and less "tuneful" than the nominate form that occurs on Amami and islands further north. They are also slightly easier to watch here, as males often spend some time on tracks in the morning. Ryukyu Green Pigeon are common and can be very confiding when feeding on low fruiting trees, but Black Woodpigeon is more difficult to see well. Striated Heron and Eurasian Kingfisher may be seen along streams.

The amazing Okinawa Rail can certainly be heard in pairs and groups throughout Yanbaru, but they keep to thick vegetation and are only seen well when they come to forest pools to bathe, or they cross roads in front of you. The summit area of Mt. Fuenchiji, Ada in the east, or the forest around Benoki Dam are good places to search. During the winter months they become more skulking, possibly because of the presence of Grey-faced Buzzard that winter in the area. A combination of patient waiting by calling birds and at likely spots should produce a brief glimpse. There are areas where this species gather in small roosts up to 5m from the ground in trees, where they can be spotlit at night. They have a wide and bewildering vocal range with strange frog-like chirps and hyena-like moans frequently heard, as well as a noisy trill that is often amplified by a chorus of trilling birds. It is advisable to spend the whole day in this forest to try and get good views of the two endemics, as they occur nowhere else. There are also endemic tortoise and newt species in this area, which are most often seen at the road side. The forest seems slightly drier in aspect than that of Amami island, and Yanbaru on a sunny day is a memorable haven for birds.
After dinner at your pension, a night-drive would be a good idea: Elegant Scops Owl and Northern Boobok are widespread in Yanbaru, and less common, but still present is the Okinawan endemic subspecies pryeri of Japanese Scops Owl. Amami Woodcock may be located on some of the quieter tracks. Eurasian Woodcock also winter here. There is also a chance of finding the subspecies of the habu snake that occurs here, and of course, locating a roost of Okinawa Rail would be a great find.

Day 5
After breakfast, you will have a final chance to search for the two endemics on a morning walk around likely sites in Yanbaru. Then you should drive south, heading towards Kin on the east coast. The wet rice fields here, bordered by some reeds and forest edge, are a haven for water birds. Waders like Wood Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Temminck's and Long-toed Stint join commoner wader species here in winter, and there is always the chance of rarer American species like Least Sandpiper and Lesser Yellowlegs occurring. The plucky White-breasted Waterhen is common here. Cinnamon Bittern are resident but tend to hide in reedy or swampy parts, occasionally venturing out onto roads. Scaly-breasted Munia (which may be escapees or genuinely wild newcomers) occur in small flocks. Chinese Bulbul are quite common. The Ryukyu subspecies of Japanese Sparrowhawk is regularly seen here over the forest edge. Japanese Quail are occasionally flushed by the road through the fields (especially in February). White-cheeked Starling flocks should be checked for Silky, Common and White-shouldered Starling.

Heading south along the east coast, the mudflats get larger and wider, and there will be many opportunities for watching feeding waders in large flocks. Black-faced Spoonbill, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Eastern Black-tailed Godwit and Pectoral Sandpiper are sometimes reported. There is always a chance of some rare species like Taiga Bean Goose or Common Shelduck turning up. Inland, the Haneda airbase, with it's extensive short grass habitats, attracts feeding flocks of Pacific Golden Plover, which could attract rarer species like American Golden Plover or, in March, Oriental Plover.
Catch an evening flight back to Tokyo or Kagoshima.