Hokkaido

A winter visit to this most northerly of the Japanese islands leaves an indelible print on any bird enthusiast's memory. Nowhere else can you easily see gatherings of two of the most fantastic bird species on earth: Steller's Sea Eagle and Red-crowned Crane.

Seen against the snowscapes of Hokkaido in mid-winter, these birds offer brilliant photo opportunities. Red-crowned Crane trumpet and perform flutter jumps and nodding displays in snow covered fields, their breath visible in the crystal clear conditions as they call in unison. Steller's Sea Eagle, certainly one of the most exciting and impressive birds of prey in the world, congregate hungrily on the frozen sea, particularly around ice holes cut by local fisherman. These birds are really imposing: with their boldly pied plumage and huge yolk-yellow feet and bills, they even outclass the White-tailed Sea Eagle that often accompany them. For such large, ferocious-looking birds, Steller's Sea Eagle are remarkably gentle with each other, and are graceful in overhead soaring flight.

Another sought-after species is the rare, fish-eating Blakiston's Fish Owl that is found in small numbers at unfrozen rivers in East Hokkaido. At certain lodges, adjacent trout pools are lit at night, providing observers with a unique chance of watching these large nocturnal birds as they come down to fish.

Lakes that dot the area hold an large wintering population of Whooper Swan, as well us some wintering pairs of Red-crowned Crane that keep their territories and do not join the larger wintering flocks further west. Wildfowl are abundant and some of the species likely to be seen are Goosander, Smew, Common Goldeneye, Eurasian Teal and Eurasian Wigeon. Checking flocks of these ducks can be rewarding, as nearctic migrants like Bufflehead, Canvasback, American Wigeon and Green-winged Teal are all possible here.

The coastline of east Hokkaido is sweeping, with some rocks and long gravely beaches. Thousands of Slaty-backed Gull congregate on the shore line, joined by lower numbers of Glaucous-winged Gull. Offshore on a calm day, the piping calls of Harlequin Duck, Long-tailed Duck and Black Scoter can be heard, and these comical, beautifully-marked ducks are joined further offshore by Asian White-winged Scoter and large flocks of Pelagic Cormorant. Along rocky parts of the coast and near fishing ports, Spectacled Guillemot are easily seen, and there is a chance of spotting more alcids offshore: Ancient Murrelet, Rhinoceros Auklet, Crested and Least Auklets and Brunnich's Guillemot are all regularly seen in winter off Hokkaido's east coast, and if you are really lucky, a Pigeon Guillemot, or a Long-billed Murrelet may present themselves. Steller's Sea Lions and Harbour Seal are regularly seen offshore.

Barren, grassy dunes and tussocky grassland are found just inland, and these areas are good for racking down Snow and Lapland Bunting, Hen Harrier, and the enigmatic Arctic Rosy Finch, which fly up from a feeding area, circle, and invariably return a few minutes later.

Inland, there is plenty of forest, and even in the depths of winter the fringes hold good populations of woodland birds like Grey-bellied Bullfinch, Hawfinch, Marsh, Willow and Long-tailed Tit (white-headed subspecies), Eurasian Nuthatch (white-browed subspecies) ,Eurasian Treecreeper and Common Redpoll. If observers are lucky they will be rewarded with views of White-backed or Black Woodpeckers, Hazel Grouse (difficult to observe well in winter), Pine Grosbeak, or the very pale subspecies of Ural Owl that occurs here. Roadsides are worth checking for Meadow Bunting and a chance group of Pallas's Rosefinch. Japanese Wagtail is easily seen near the crane sites at Tsurui village. Rough-legged Buzzard regularly winter in the southeast in small numbers, but Eastern Buzzard is much more common. There are several large roosts (of around 2-400) Black-eared Kite. Trees in town parks may hold Bohemian Waxwing, Dusky Thrush and Pale Thrush, as well as the noisy Brown-eared Bulbul.

Hokkaido in summer is a very different place: low hills and verdant cow pastures dot the landscape, the rugged peaks of the Shiretoko Peninsula lose their snow, and meadows burst into colour, carpeted by a wide range of flowering plants. In low bushes, Siberian Rubythroat give their scratchy song, and occasionally males appear on top of the scrub in full view. Gray's, Middendorff's and Lanceolated Warblers are more skulking, but reward patient observers. In grassy areas, the smart Black-browed Reed Warbler commonly sings. Blakiston's Fish Owl can be heard calling from their breeding areas, and birds with young are visible in June: perhaps the easiest time to see this species well, including in daylight hours. .

In wooded areas and larger forests, 5 species of woodpecker can be seen, including Grey-headed Woodpecker. This is the time to see Hazel Grouse, whose presence is often belied by high-pitched calls. The Daisetsu mountains offer some superb hiking opportunities and chances to see male Siberian Blue Robin and Red-flanked Bluetail in breeding plumage. Pine Grosbeak also breed, but are rather local. Mammals that can be sighted include the Hokkaido forms of Sika Deer, Red Squirrel, Red Fox and even Brown Bear!

We can arrange a local guide to take you around some or all of these sites, and we can arranuge hotel reservations and transport. Our local guides know exactly what rare birds are about, so you could tick off something like a Ross's Gull as a bonus! Please also see our suggested itinerary for a short bird tour around the East Hokkaido, and note that all our tours can be pieced together to make a longer, Japan-wide tour if desired. Please contact us with your requests.

Hokkaido: Winter Suggested Tour Itinerary: 5 nights, 6 days

The cost: Approximately JPY82,000 (=GBP580)
This is an approximate price per person for 2 people sharing a Twin or Double room and a car hire for this 6 days model itinerary.
Including:
*5 nights accommodation(including Breakfast & Dinner)
*Car Hire (1500cc class sedan) for 6 days
*Booking fee
*Detailed information service in English before departure
(Option in Feb 2010: Steller's Sea Eagle 2 hours Cruise)
If you are interested in this arrangement, or if you prefer a shorter or a longer itinerary,
or need a English speaking birdwatching guide, we can suggest you a perfect trip for you.
please just send us an e-mail!
booking@japanbirdwatching.com

Day 1
Morning flight from Tokyo Haneda Airport to Kushiro, Hokkaido. Arrive Kushiro and pick up hire car. Drive around 10km to nearby Tsurui village, to the three gathering and feeding sites of Red-crowned Crane. Search surrounding roadside and woodland belts for other bird species like Meadow Bunting, Pallas's Rosefinch, Varied Tit (not found further east of here in Hokkaido), Marsh Tit, Long-tailed Tit, Japanese Pygmy and Great-spotted Woodpecker, Dusky Thrush and Brown-eared Bulbul. The ground around the crane sites should be checked for Black-eared Kite, White-tailed Sea Eagle and Japanese Wagtail. Brown Dipper occur in rivers and streams. Stay night in western-style lodge (B&B) Hickory Wind Wilderness Lodge.

Day 2
Next morning, arrive at the Otowa Bridge in Tsurui to watch the morning flight of Red-crowned Crane from their riverine roost- a memorable site against a colourful winter sky that should provide amazing photo opportunities of these magnificent birds. Drive inland, heading east to Yoroushi. On the way, look for woodland birds, including Black and White-backed Woodpecker, Common Redpoll and Eurasian Treecreeper and Eurasian Nuthatch. The sky should be scanned for possible Steller's Sea Eagle and White-tailed Sea Eagle. Eastern Buzzard should be looked for along the roadside.
Book into the Daiichi Hotel in Yoroushi Spa. Watch the floodlit fish pools at night in front of your room for views of feeding Blakiston's Fish Owl. These incredible birds are seen most nights at these pools. A brief walk with a spotlight may reveal Ural Owl. 

Day 3
Next day, a morning walk around the woods at Yoroushi, to search for woodland birds.
Drive to the east coast, where there are many gulls along the beaches: Glaucous (the very pale subspecies pallidissimus) and Slaty-backed Gull are joined by smaller numbers of Mew, Vega and Glaucous-winged Gull. One or two Black-tailed Gull can usually be found. Offshore, Long-tailed and Harlequin Duck, Common Goldeneye, Greater Scaup and Black and Asian White-winged Scoter can be seen. There is a chance of seeing Ancient Murrelet and Spectacled Guillemot as well as Common and Brunnich's Guillemot, and possibly a Surf Scoter or a small flock of Brent Goose.
Steller's Sea Eagle should be visible at several points, and off Rausu port. Stay in Rausu at the Rausukuru Pension. There are opportunities for viewing Blakiston's Fish Owl by floodlight at Rausu.

Day 4
From Rausu, take an early morning boat trip out to the sea ice to view Steller's Sea Eagle as they perch on jagged ridges of sea ice waiting for discarded fish from fishing boats. They are joined by small numbers of Black-eared Kite, White-tailed Sea Eagle, Large-billed Crow, and here there is a chance of finding a Northern Raven, a rare but regular visitor here. Alcids and sea ducks can be viewed from the boat.
Drive south to the Notsuke peninsula, where a drive down the sandy spit fringed with marsh-like vegetation should reveal more views of sea eagles, a roost of Hen Harrier, and an assortment of Common Goldeneye, Whooper Swan and other wintering waterfowl on the lake. Both Canvasback and Bufflehead have been recorded here in winter several times. Searching the road verges at the village here should reveal views of Arctic Rosy Finch, and Snow and Lapland Bunting are regular winterers along the spit, but will be harder to flush in windy conditions.
Drive south to Lake Furen, where a boardwalk trail around the lake and into spruce forest, offers views of Steller's Sea Eagle, Whooper Swan and some wintering waders including Dunlin, Grey Plover and possible Sanderling. The forest here holds Black and White-backed Woodpecker, Common Redpoll and Grey-bellied Bullfinch, and many Goldcrest and Coal Tit. Hazel Grouse and Grey-headed Woodpecker are present, but are very quiet and so difficult to detect in winter. Lesser-spotted Woodpecker may still be present in small numbers, but are rarely seen. Nearby lakes hold pairs of Red-crowned Crane and we will search lakeside trees on the off-chance of finding a Blakiston's Fish Owl in daylight. Nearby, there is usually a large roost of Black-eared Kite, which is normally augmented by Large-billed and Carrion Crow. Stay in Nemuro City at the Lodge Fuhren.

Day 5
Spend the morning driving around the Nemuro headland, stopping at small bays and ports along the way, and watching for passerines in small stands of wind-blown trees. It is here that you are likely to get some very close views of Steller's Sea Eagle as they sit by ice-holes in small lakes, cut by local fishermen. Pacific and Black-throated Diver regularly fish close inshore, and this is a great place to compare their appearance and feeding habits at close range.
At the Nosappu peninsula, the Russian controlled Habomai Island group seem just a stone's throw away. Watching the strait between the peninsula and these islands in this cold spot can be surprisingly productive. Spectacled Guillemot are easy to see, and Brunnich's and a few Common Guillemot are also present. Just to confuse matters, Pigeon Guillemot is regular (two subspecies!). Crested, Least and Rhinocerous Auklet occur, and the sea ducks are sometimes joined by small numbers of Steller's Eider (though these tend to be rather distant). Red-necked and Horned Grebe are regular, and White-billed and Red-throated Diver are quite regularly seen offshore in winter. In trees, Dusky Thrush, Hawfinch, Bohemian Waxwing and Common Redpoll flocks will be checked carefully for Japanese Waxwing and Arctic Redpoll.
Small ports with sheltering harbour walls like Habomai should be searched for birds sheltering from choppy offshore conditions. There are winter records of Long-billed Murrelet, Red Phalarope, Ross's Gull and Fork-tailed Storm Petrel in such places, and you can get close views of alcids, divers and sea ducks. Stay at the Lodge Fuhren or East Harbour Hotel for another night. A road bridge crossing a small river at the western end of the peninsula can be checked at night for Blakiston's Fish Owl should you still wish to connect with this species.

Day 6
Morning drive along the southern coast to Kushiro. At Cape Ochiishi, search the sea for views of Pelagic and Temminck's Cormorant, hoping for a view of the now very rare Red-faced Cormorant. Rough-legged Buzzard should be looked for along roadsides, and Gyr Falcon is an annual winter visitor to the area, but you have to be lucky to see one.
At Akkeshi, scan the lagoon for views of grebes and waterfowl. Back in Kushiro, it may be worth checking some river sites with waterfowl if you have time. Whenever a flock of Rock Dove are disturbed from warehouse rooftops, scan the sky for Gyr Falcon (the white form is reported more often) but be aware that Peregrine Falcon also occur in the area. Head to Kushiro airport to catch an afternoon flight back to Tokyo.