Kagoshima

Kagoshima is the southernmost main island prefecture in Japan, but winters here can be chilly, especially on the northwest coast. The main reason for birders to visit this area is to experience the sight of more than half the world populations of White-naped and Hooded Cranes flying into protected roosts in rice fields near Izumi City. The cranes are easily viewed feeding in nearby fields throughout the day, and driving around this area enables the observer to get acquainted with the different species of crane that are found here: there are smaller numbers of Common Crane (subspecies lilfordi), Sandhill Crane, and also some hybrid Hooded x Common Crane hybrids to be picked out from the throng. There is also a good possibility that some rarer crane species may have joined the flock accidentally: Siberian, Demoiselle and Red-crowned Crane have all been recorded wintering in recent years.

The fields near Izumi also contain flooded pools that attract around 10,000 dabbling ducks, principally Eurasian Wigeon and Northern Pintail, but Shoveler, Gadwall, Falcated Duck, Baikal Teal and American Wigeon are present in small numbers. The sheer volume of flying feathers and the chorus of crane calls is breathtaking! The pools regularly hold flocks of Northern Lapwing, and in some years a few wintering Greater Painted Snipe brave the chill, or Grey-headed Lapwing visit. In autumn and spring, migrant waders fill the flooded rice fields, including large numbers of Wood Sandpiper and Common Snipe, but also Ruff, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper; Long-toed, Red-necked and Temminck's Stint. A few Cattle Egret linger into winter, and rarely Intermediate Egret is also present. Black-faced Spoonbill are casual visitors to the area: this species and Eurasian Spoonbill tend to winter at sites north and south of the Izumi area, but these are readily accessible by road.

The rice stubble attracts feeding groups of Pacific Golden Plover, and flocks of Eurasian Skylark (subspecies japonica), Brambling, Oriental Greenfinch, Rustic, Meadow and Chestnut-eared Bunting, whereas roadside reed beds regularly support wintering Japanese Bush Warbler, Russet Sparrow, Reed and Black-faced Bunting (subspecies personata), Chinese Penduline Tit and even Northern Wryneck and Dusky Warbler. Siberian Rubythroat pass through in November and some stay on territories in weed-clogged streams and reedbeds into December.

Raptors are also a feature of Izumi and nearby sites. Hen Harrier (mostly females and immatures) and Eastern Marsh Harrier (nearly all females) are usually present, quartering the fields. Peregrine Falcon regularly cause a commotion, and Merlin have been recorded, while Grey-faced Buzzard and Northern Goshawk occur during autumn migration. Black-eared Kite and Osprey are common here. A Great Spotted Eagle has been wintering in the Sendai City fields for the last decade, and there have even been reports of Eastern Imperial Eagle and Steller's Sea Eagle from the area in recent years.

The fields also play host to increasingly large numbers of Rook (eastern ssp. pastinator) that are joined each year by small numbers of Daurian Jackdaw. There are winter roosts of White-cheeked Starling and Common Starling, which attract rarer starlings like White-shouldered or Silky Starling. Long-billed Plover can regularly be observed on a shingle bank of the Takaono River at low tide, and just upstream is a reliable site for both Crested Kingfisher and Japanese Wagtail in winter. Dusky Thrush are commonly seen in most years in the stubble fields, while a walk through adjoining woodland will reveal Pale Thrush, Elegant and Grey Bunting. Flocks of wintering Japanese Grosbeak may include some Chinese Grosbeak and Hawfinch. The colourful Daurian Redstart is a common winter visitor, as is Bull-headed Shrike. Green Pheasant are occasionally glimpsed in fallow areas adjoining stubble fields, but tend to stay hidden.

White-bellied Green Pigeon occur year-round in the temperate evergreen woods around the Sendai fields, and forest-fringed pools near here hold wintering Mandarin and Falcated Ducks. Sea watching in some of the sheltered rocky bays is not often practised, but can produce sightings of offshore Japanese and Ancient Murrelet, Pelagic Cormorant, Great-crested and Black-necked Grebe and Red-breasted Merganser. Saunders's Gull are recorded annually at Izumi port, but are more regular further north in Yatsushiro, where one or two adult Pallas's Gull have been wintering in recent years.

There is plenty to keep birdwatchers occupied, but relaxing by the crane viewing centre and watching the cranes fly into roost with a cop of tea and a roasted, locally grown sweet potato is an experience not to be missed!

A visit to Miike and Koike, two volcanic lakes in the Kirishima area in late May, is a must for those keen to see Fairy Pitta. Just an hour north west of the airport by car, this cathedral forest is overshadowed by the imposing Takachiho volcano, and affords exquisite views from above and below. The pitta population in the forest surrounding Miike Lake has declined somewhat in recent years, but 2 or 3 pairs currently use the site. Fairy Pitta often arrive in late May (no earlier than the 16th) and are present through the summer (latest record September 15th). Adult males give their whistled call from the tops of the highest hemlocks in the high canopy broadleaf mixed forest at Miike, but they are difficult to see until they descend to feed on worms on the forest floor.

The lakes are rather deep, but hold small numbers of Asian Spot-billed Duck all year round, and Crested and Eurasian Kingfisher breed. Koike, a smaller lake in a deep wooded crater nearby, attracts Mandarin Duck and sometimes Baikal Teal in the winter months, when Long-billed Plover has also turned up. There is a small hide in the forest, and well-maintained trails, from where you can get good views of the breeding birds of the area: Blue-and-white, Black Paradise and Narcissus Flycatcher are common breeders; Japanese Grosbeak, Japanese, White-backed and Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, White's Thrush, Grey Thrush (rare) and Asian Stubtail can be seen. A visit to some tree-line forest closer to the volcano's crater may produce Japanese Robin, but this species is rather difficult to see well as it keeps to the thickest scrub. An established population of Red-billed Leiothrix provides a harmonious soundtrack.

Because the canopy in the Miike forest is high, and some areas of the forest are out of bounds to walkers, it is best to bird slowly in areas that have a variety of heights of vegetation. Often sitting and waiting is more productive. When walking, it is important to make as little noise as possible, and concentrate on quieter trails. Patience can be rewarded with great views of vigilant species like Lesser Cuckoo, Northern Hawk Cuckoo (possibly only a migrant here, but may breed), Japanese Sparrowhawk, Ruddy Kingfisher and even the rare and mysterious Japanese Night Heron, which probably breeds here each year. Ural Owl and occasionally Japanese Scops Owl can be heard calling at night in the forest edge around the lake. Indian Cuckoo has been recorded calling in May and early June in the Kirishima area almost annually of late. In winter, the forest around Koike is an excellent place to observe Grey Bunting. Kirishima Shrine is good for Goldcrest and White's Thrush in winter; the latter can be exceptionally tame there.

The prize sighting at Miike would definitely be of a male Copper Pheasant, here represented by the most stunning subspecies of all- the dazzlingly white-rumped and rich-plumaged ijimae subspecies. To catch sight of this incredibly wary bird, you need to be aware of any leaf-rustling ahead of you, crouch and wait very quietly until you can see something. A snapped twig, a cough, or a rustle of a jacket is enough to send a Copper Pheasant scuttling into the gloom of the forest at lightning speed.

We can arrange a local guide to take you around some or all of these sites, and we can arrange reservations and transport. Our local guides know exactly what rare birds are about, so you could tick off something like Swan Goose as a bonus! Please also see our suggested itinerary for a short bird tour around Kagoshima, and note that all our tours can be pieced together to make a longer, Japan-wide tour if desired. Please contact us with your requests.

Kagoshima: Winter Suggested Tour Itinerary: 3 days, 2 nights

Day 1
Morning flight from Tokyo Haneda airport to Kagoshima airport. Pick up hire car and drive for 1 hour to Izumi, where you will check into the western Style Hotel King. Spend the rest of the day bird watching at Izumi, where you will see the large wintering flock of Hooded and White-naped Crane. Some time will be spent scanning the various crane flocks for Common Crane, hybrid Common x Hooded Crane, Sandhill Crane and any other vagrant crane species that might be present. The pools will be checked for wintering waterfowl and waders, including Northern Pintail, Eurasian Wigeon, Baikal Teal, Asian Spot-billed Duck, Northern Lapwing, Pacific Golden Plover and Greater Painted Snipe. Rice stubble around the crane visitor centre holds a large flock of corvids: Rook (eastern subspecies pastinator), Daurian Jackdaw, Large-billed and Eastern Carrion Crow can all be easily seen. There is a large gathering of Great Cormorant and Grey Heron along the sea wall. Great Egret and Little Egret winter in lesser numbers and there are annual records of Cattle and Intermediate Egret in winter. Vagrants recorded recently at Arasaki in the crane enclosure have included Greater and Lesser White-fronted Goose, Taiga Bean Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Grey-headed Lapwing and Oriental White Stork.
In the reedy fringes, Russet Sparrow, Common Reed Bunting and Chinese Penduline Tit will be looked for, and passerine flocks should be checked for Eurasian Skylark (subspecies japonica), Oriental Greenfinch, Rustic Bunting and Brambling. Little Bunting are present in the reed beds in some winters. Fields and road verges around the crane enclosure hold wintering Dusky Thrush, Red-throated Pipit, Buff-bellied Pipit (subspecies japonicus) and Grey and White Wagtail (subspecies lugens). After experiencing the sight of up to 11,000 cranes returning to roost, return to Izumi to your hotel.

Day 2
Return to the Arasaki fields south of Izumi, where you will have more opportunities to see cranes and also any birds you may have missed yesterday. Recommended are visits to the onion and vegetable plots east of the crane centre to look for Japanese Green Pheasant, to the sea wall to look for Black-tailed Gull, Slaty-backed and Vega Gull, Osprey, and possible Brown Booby. A nearby woodland holds Varied Tit, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker, Japanese White-eye, Olive-backed Pipit, Elegant and Black-faced Bunting, as well as Grey Bunting in some winters. A winter flock of Japanese Grosbeak in fruiting trees should be checked carefully for Hawfinch and even Chinese Grosbeak (Izumi is the most regular site to see this species in Japan in winter, but sightings have become rarer in recent years). Eastern Marsh Harrier and Hen Harrier (normally females and immatures) may be quartering over the fields. At various sites along the Takaono River nearby, Crested Kingfisher (sometimes), Japanese Wagtail, White wagtail (ssp. lugens) and Long-billed Plover can be seen, and Dusky Warbler and sometimes Northern Wryneck winter in reed stands near the river, along with Japanese Bush Warbler.
Set off south, heading for the Takae fields near Sendai city (about 1 hour by car). On the way, a stop by the Akune coast may reveal offshore Black-necked or Great Crested Grebe, Temminck's Cormorant, Pelagic Cormorant, Eastern Reef Egret and offshore Ancient and, with luck, Japanese Murrelet. At the Takae fields, you can look for many of the species found at Izumi (except the cranes), and a Great Spotted Eagle that has been wintering here over the last decade. Nearby pools in forest near the atomic power station hold wintering Mandarin and Falcated Duck, and White-bellied Green Pigeon and Grey Bunting are specialities found in the forest.
An alternative to this last site would entail heading south (1 hour more) to see a wintering flock of Black-faced Spoonbill in the estuary of the Manose river in the Kinpo area. Around 25-30 birds are present each year, usually with one or two Eurasian Spoonbill. Watching them is best when the tide is coming in, when many wintering waders can be seen on the mudflat, including Kentish and Grey Plover, and possible Far Eastern or Eurasian Curlew, Sanderling and Dunlin. Red-necked Stint sometimes winter, and Little Stint has been recorded. Vagrants that have occurred in recent winters include Pied Avocet and Ferruginous Duck. Falcated Duck can be seen about 3km upriver from the estuary, where Northern Goshawk may be seen coming out of the nearby forest to hunt.
Another option is to head 1 hour north of Izumi, checking Izumi port for Common Starlings and White-cheeked Starling (and possible vagrant starling species with them) and the port itself for a possible Saunders's Gull, Baikal Teal, Falcated Duck or Common Shelduck on the way. At Yatsushiro, you can see wintering Saunders's Gull, Black-faced Spoonbill and one or two Pallas's Gull (regular in winter here recently) from the sea wall, although the mudflat here is very wide, so it is best to time your visit to an incoming tide. Return to Izumi (Hotel King).

Day 3
Depending on what you still want to see, you can decide where to spend the last morning. The crane flock may prove too tempting to miss. Just outside Izumi is a dam where you can search for Mandarin Duck, Japanese Wagtail and Crested Kingfisher. Or a judicious foray into the mountains on the way back to the airport may award you with a prized sighting of the fantastic Copper Pheasant, here represented by the most beautiful subspecies of all: the dazzling white-rumped ijimae. Chose a quiet forest track, preferably near a hill ridge with mixed cedar and evergreen trees, park, and walk very slowly along the track. A very early morning visit is recommended for the best results. Visiting the Mt Shibi pass on the way to the airport is best, as there are several quiet tracks where this species occurs, but the drive from there to the airport may take over two hours, so it is best to leave plenty of time. Grey Bunting may also bee seen in the forest undergrowth here in winter.
Return to Kagoshima airport for a late afternoon flight to Tokyo, or on to Amami Island further south.